I also had a lot of time to think, especially on the ride to and from the Mara where the road is so rough our driver chose to drive off-road because it really was smoother. Still, I think he tried to get as close to the 80 kilometer per hour speed limit as possible, which rendered any conversation impossible.
At the end of our time there, as we were checking out at the Reserve gate, the van was swarmed by the Maasai women (the Maasai Mamas) trying to sell trinkets. They are very persistent, and it can be quite intimidating for even an adult. As we were puling away, the other girl Faith's age said, "Those ladies were being mean!" To be fair, they kind of are, but it's the kind of meanness borne of desperation.

The Maasai were traditionally nomadic cattle herders, warriors and raiders. Their houses were made of mud and sticks, surrounded by a fence of cut thornbrush where the livestock were kept at night. When grazing resources were exhausted, they'd move on and build a new house and fence. Today, as you drive through Maasai land, you see some of these compounds (called bomas) built in the traditional way, but most have added a tin roof. Some homes are made of concrete, some fences are now barbed wire with permanent posts. In all the bomas, there are signs the Maasai are no longer moving. Pasture is overgrazed; the cattle are thin. The Maasai, as a people, have been passed by. Poverty is everywhere.

The sights on our drive are raw, heartbreaking. 'Poor' is on display. Some men stand along the road throwing dirt into potholes, hoping a grateful traveler will toss them a few shillings. Women and children carry muddy water from dammed-up culverts. A roadkill zebra with the legs hacked off - free dinner. Miles and miles of trees cut and burned to sell as charcoal - most of the trees have already been cut; what happens when they're gone? It's hard to know how to help.
We drove basically from here in Kijabe to the Tanzanian border and the whole way the picture was the same. It's almost revolting; I want, most of the time, to push them away. There's no way to help all of them.
Eventually, my thoughts returned to the thieves from the week before. I don't know much at all about them. They were obviously desperate. The blue flip-flop one of them lost in the kitchen was pretty old and worn.
"They're not being mean, they're just poor..."
The way Faith said it didn't sound like simple justification, more like compassion. I pray for the same thing - compassion.
Oh my goodness. We just love you all so much.
ReplyDelete